From Changdeokgung’s Side Gate to Injeongjeon

The main gate closed, in by Geumhomun

The Royal Palaces and Tombs Center announced repair work on Donhwamun from 11 November 2024, with Geumhomun as the temporary entrance and the small gate beside it as the exit for the duration of the work. As of 23 September 2026, its visitor guidance still identifies Geumhomun as the entrance to Changdeokgung.

Out of Exit 3 of Anguk Station on Line 3, she walks east along Yulgok-ro: 390 metres, five minutes by map route. The Royal Palaces and Tombs Center also gives five minutes on foot from Anguk Exit 3. There is no parking at Changdeokgung. Find on the map

She reaches Donhwamun. The Royal Palaces and Tombs Center has been repairing this gate since 11 November 2024 and has announced that, for the duration, the entrance is Geumhomun on the west side and the exit a small gate beside it. As of September 2026, the Center’s visitor guidance still names Geumhomun as the entrance to Changdeokgung. Rina looks once at the main gate under repair, then heads for Geumhomun as the notice says.

The Korea Heritage Service describes Donhwamun as the oldest surviving wooden palace gate: built in 1412, repaired in 1609. On her first visit Rina walked through it without a thought. She finds out she once passed through the oldest gate on the day she can’t go through it.

Geumhomun is a side gate in the palace wall. She buys a ticket and goes in. Changdeokgung is closed on Mondays; in September and October it is open until 18:00, with last entry at 17:00. Admission to the palace buildings is 3,000 won for adults.

The oldest stone bridge in Seoul, and one turn

From the Korea Heritage Service’s description of Geumcheongyo Bridge (Treasure): a stone bridge over the Geumcheon, a channel flowing from north to south between Donhwamun and Jinseonmun, built in March 1411, the 11th year of King Taejong. It is the oldest stone bridge inside any palace and the oldest stone bridge surviving in Seoul. It has two arches, with a goblin face carved on the wall between them, and below, a haetae figure on the south side and a tortoise on the north.

A short walk east from the gate brings her to a stone bridge: Geumcheongyo. The Korea Heritage Service places it between Donhwamun and Jinseonmun, over the Geumcheon, a channel that flows from north to south. It was built in March 1411, the 11th year of King Taejong — the oldest stone bridge inside any palace, and the oldest stone bridge left in Seoul. Find on the map

Rina doesn’t stop in the middle; she goes to the edge. According to the guide, the bridge has two arches with a goblin face carved on the wall between them, and below, a haetae sits on the south side and a tortoise on the north. She looks down over the railing. On her first visit this was just part of the path underfoot. She writes: “Under the bridge, a haetae and a tortoise. Opposite sides.”

Across the bridge is Jinseonmun. Beyond it a long courtyard opens sideways, and the gate to Injeongjeon is not straight ahead but on the left. Here Rina turns once: east from Geumhomun until now, north from here.

The Korea Heritage Service says that Changdeokgung, unlike Gyeongbokgung, was not laid out in an artificial straight line but built to fit the surrounding hills and ground. In the Gwanghwamun series, Maya’s approach to Geunjeongjeon ran along a central axis. Walking this path, Rina thinks of that description. Rina writes the answer beside her first line: “Turns: one. Coming in by the side gate.”

Through Injeongmun to the courtyard of Injeongjeon

From the Korea Heritage Service’s description of Injeongjeon Hall (National Treasure): the main throne hall of Changdeokgung; “injeong” means benevolent rule. Coronations, royal weddings, the investiture of crown princes and formal audiences were held here. Rebuilt under Gwanghaegun, it was rebuilt again after a fire in 1803, the third year of King Sunjo. The courtyard in front is called the jojeong, with rank stones lined up, twelve on the east and twelve on the west. After Emperor Sunjong moved to Changdeokgung in 1907, Western fittings such as glass windows and electric lights were added and the floor was changed to wood.

Through Injeongmun, the courtyard opens up. This is where she took that first photo. The Korea Heritage Service calls this courtyard the jojeong and says rank stones line the central path, twelve on the east and twelve on the west. This time Rina walks along the line of stones rather than down the middle. Find on the map

At the far end, on a high stone platform, stands Injeongjeon: Changdeokgung’s throne hall. “Injeong” means benevolent rule. Coronations, royal weddings and the investiture of crown princes were held here. The present building was rebuilt after a fire in 1803, the third year of King Sunjo, the guide says.

The guide has one more line: after Emperor Sunjong moved to Changdeokgung in 1907, Western fittings such as glass windows and electric lights were added to Injeongjeon and the floor was changed to wood. Rina looks inside only as far as she can see from the door. That the largest hall of an old palace also holds twentieth-century fittings is something she didn’t know the first time.

Rina walks once round the courtyard and turns back toward Injeongmun. Beyond the gate she can guess where she turned on the way in. Beside that first photo, there is now a path.

Changdeokgung was built in 1405 as a secondary palace to Gyeongbokgung. After the Japanese invasions it was the first palace to be rebuilt, in 1610, and for some 270 years, until Gyeongbokgung was rebuilt in 1867, it served in practice as the main palace. With Changgyeonggung it was called the Donggwol, and in 1997 it became a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Rina thought of that description today: from the side gate, her route changed direction once after Jinseonmun before reaching Injeongjeon.

Rina has two quiet recommendations. Avoid Mondays, when Changdeokgung is closed. And if you come before the repairs are done, go in by Geumhomun and stop once at the edge of Geumcheongyo. The haetae and the tortoise are under the bridge, not on it.

(※ This article includes staged images created with AI.)